"A sacred shrine hidden on top of great precipices in a stupendous canyon where the secret of its existence was safely buried for three centuries under the shadow of Machu Picchu Mountain. Its ruins have taken the name of the mountain because when we found them no one knew what else to call them."

- Hiram Bingham, archeologist credited with discovering Machu Picchu; as written in his book Lost City of the Incas.



It’s hard to believe that the most significant remnant of the Inca culture remained hidden to the modern world right up until 1911. In fact, Bingham himself merely stumbled upon it during his quest to locate Vitcos (Vilcabamba), the final refuge of the Incas during the Spanish conquest. After hearing rumours from locals that better ruins existed nearby, Bingham casually set out to see what the fuss was about. He didn’t bother to bring his team that day, as he hadn’t expected the discovery to be significant. Low and behold, this is how the world came to know Machu Picchu. As with any major discovery, there has been significant debate as to whether Bingham was actually the ‘first’ to discover it, nonetheless he has been given the credit for making the site and its significance widely known throughout the world.

Machu Picchu is believed to have been built by Pachacuti, the legendary Inca figure who was responsible for the expansion of the Inca Empire in the 15th century. Archeologists have determined that it was a country estate for Inca nobility because it is not designed in the form of a conventional city. Some also suppose that it was built to protect this nobility in the event of an attack. An educated look at the placement and direction of the ruins would also indicate that they were built to accommodate a variety of sacred landscape features and in consideration of the sun’s position throughout the seasons.



Visiting Machu Picchu:

Cusco is the departure point for visitors to Machu Picchu. Today there are a variety of options for visiting the sacred ruins:

Hike the Inca Trail: The Capac Nan trail is the original Inca trail that today has been turned into a tourist highway. Although tour companies stagger their stops and campsites, the path is pretty much the same no matter which tour company you go with and the entire trek takes four days. Despite the crowds, you will be treated to an unforgettable experience marked by breathtaking views, starry skies, steep switchbacks, welcoming Andean villagers and mystical revelations.

These days it is possible to do an abbreviated version of the hike, taking the train to km 104 for the final day of the trek, visiting the Wiñay Wayna ruins before joining fellow hikers on the Capac Nan trail. Both require a certified guide.



As a result of the degradation and pollution caused by years of unprotected tourism, the Peruvian government has enforced limits on Inca Trail treks. Only 500 people are allowed on the trail at a time (200 tourists, 300 trek staff), and hikers must be accompanied by a registered tour guide to do the trek. See a list of registered guides here.

Alternative Routes: several alternative routes have been established providing less crowded options for reaching Machu Picchu. Note that these treks ultimately connect with the Inca Trail and therefore require a permit as well.

Mollepata-Salkantay-MP 7 day trek -moderate to difficult.

Mollepata-Salkantay-Santa Teresa-MP 5 day trek - moderate to difficult

Vilcabamba – MP 5 to 6 day trek – moderate to difficult

Ausangate 6 to 7 day trek -moderate to difficult

Take the train: the crowds and pollution on the Inca Trail have led many travelers to avoid the traditional trek and arrive at Machu Picchu by train instead. This frees up time to try some of the less-traveled, alternative treks through the Sacred Valley. The drawback is that you won’t have the experience of crossing the Inca Sun Gate at sunrise to discover the ruins or the boasting rights to say you hiked the Inca Trail.

There are three types of trains that make the journey from Cusco to Machu Picchu:

• The Backpacker is the most basic (US$57 return)


• The Vistadome offers slightly more space and more windows for scenic views (US$77 return)


• The Hiram Bingham is the luxury option, seating only 84 passengers. This train departs Cusco at 9:00am returning 6:00pm, every day but Sunday. This option includes brunch, drinks, musical entertainment, access to Machu Picchu with a tour guide, and dinner and drinks on the return. (US$507 return)

The train ride from Cusco to Aguas Calientes (the small town at the base of Machu Picchu) is about 3 ½ hours.  Travelers can take a 20 minutes minbus ride or hike 1 hour up a stone staircase to the entrance of the ruins.

The first train in the morning arrives at Aguas Calientes at 8:20 and the last train departs at 4:20pm. Mid-day is the busiest time at Machu Pichu since tourists tend to visit in the morning and head to Ollantaytambo for the afternoon or vice versa. To avoid the crowds you need to spend the night in Aguas Calientes (which is not a great alternative) or stay right on the mountain at the Machu Pichu Sanctuary Lodge (if your budget allows) so that you can be the first one in and the last one off. Check out our recommendations for accommodations near Machu Picchu for the best options.

Travelers can once again take a helicopter tour of the area to get a full aerial view. Heli-Cusco offers flights from Cusco to Aguas Calientes. The 30 minute journey costs about US$200. Click here for contact details.

If you decide to visit Machu Picchu on your own we highly recommend bringing a guide. The significance and intricacies of the Incan architecture will be lost on you otherwise. If the weather is good, consider a hike up Huayna Picchu, the adjacent mountain. It is a fairly steep, 45-minute climb, but the views, providing a different perspective of Machu Picchu, are astonishing.



Guides to Machu Picchu

Guides have to be certified by the state to take people on the Inca Trail, so not everyone can actually run a tour. Generally speaking, the more you pay for your trek the better service you get. All tours typically include the following in their packages: transport to the start of the trek, bilingual guide, assistant guide for groups of 9 and over, entrance fees, tent, sleeping mattress, cooking equipment, cook, meals, porters, and return transport to Cusco via the train. A problem has arisen whereby, in order to keep their costs down, companies are abusing their porters by forcing them to work for significant pay cuts and poor working conditions.  Companies catering to backpackers in particular have been accused of this, so if you see a company that is offering a tour for under $300 you should be suspicious.

Recommendations:

Enigma Tours is a well-run establishment that has carefully selected and trained a group of people, all originally from Cusco, Lima and Arequipa, to be the best guides, chefs, porters and office staff.

Apumayo has been around for a while, treats their porters well and are dependable.

Wayki Trek is a relatively new company started by professional tour guides with the aim of educating travelers about conservation activities in the area. What’s nice about their tours is that groups are limited to 8 people.



Hints and Tips

• Buses from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu start at 5:30am. If you stay overnight in Aguas Calientes you can beat the crowds who take the train in for the day and have the ruins to yourself (almost) for a full three hours.


• Buy your entrance tickets in either Cusco or Aguas Calientes so that you don’t have to wait in the line up once you get there.


• Although there are guides at the entrance, you will be much better off to arrange a guide before-hand from Cusco.
  
  


• Don’t start the Inca Trail Trek immediately upon setting foot in Peru. It is best to spend a few days in the Sacred Valley to acclimatize to the altitude before embarking on the journey.
  
  

Best Time to Visit

May is the best time to visit Machu Picchu – just after the rainy season (so everything is lush and green) but before the tourist rush. June – September is quite busy. December – March is the rainy season and is relatively quiet. During these months you run the risk of mudslides which can block the railroads and leave you stranded for a few days.

If you plan to hike the Inca Trail during peak tourist months you will want to make reservations at least three months in advance. The trail is closed during the month of February (the rainiest month) for maintenance and repair.



What to Pack for the Trek

Two pairs of hiking shoes/boots and several pairs of socks

Insect repellent

Sun block

Sunglasses

Raincoat

Light clothing for the day and warm for the night

Hiking or yoga pants

Sun hat

Water Bottle

Sleeping bag (unless you rent one from the company) and pad

Tipping

It is customary to tip your guides and porters at the end of the tour. This can be a touchy subject because each culture around the world has a different view of what is acceptable for a tip, and yet the tips are usually presented by the entire group at the end of the trek. A general guideline is to ensure $15 – 30 per trekker for the porters. Cooks should be tipped about the same (per cook on behalf of the entire group), while the guide might receive slightly more (per guide on behalf of the entire group). Also, consider tipping them with a jacket or shoes if you don’t plan to bring them home with you. These items rarely fit into the budget of a porter, but are always appreciated.

Here is a great, amateur video providing a candid view of one couple’s experience on the 4-day Inca Trail trek.