Peru > Cusco

Top Things to Do

Although you may feel ‘ruined-out’ after hiking the Inca Trail if you are not an archaeology buff, a trip to Cusco would not be complete without a visit to some of the nearby sites. This multi-purpose ticket (US$10) is your passport to the sites and monuments around Cusco. It can be purchased at any one of the sites it covers, which include:

Santa Catalina Convent and Art Museum
Museo de Historia Regional
Museo Palacio Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo
Museo Arqueólogico Koricancha (but not Koricancha itself)
Museo de Arte Popular
Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo
Monumento Pachacútec
Inca ruins of Sacsayhuaman, Q'enko, Tambomachay and Puca Pucara
Pisac, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero (in the Sacred Valley); and
Pikillacta and Tipón

Cusco today shows many traces of its former self, when it was the center of the Inca Empire. Its cobble-stoned streets and Inca-laid foundation, intermixed with colonial and Renaissance architecture, reveal a dynamic history that today exudes the charm of this beautiful city. Most of the city can easily be seen in a ½ day’s walk, either independently or with a guide.

Begin your tour at the Plaza de Armas, which is the main square in town. Once flanked by palaces, the square today is surrounded by tourist restaurants and souvenir shops, interspersed with a few cultural highlights. The plaza is a historic monument in and of itself, as the scene of Tupac Amaru’s killing and the declaration of the Spanish occupation of Cusco.

On the Northeast corner of the square is the Cathedral, which was completed in the 17th century and is shaped in the form of a Latin cross. Within the cathedral you will find some unique colonial artwork including a painting of the Peruvian version of the Last Supper where the gang is feasting on guinea pig and chicha! Legend has it that an Inca prince was encased in the wall of one of the Cathedral’s towers and that he will free his people one day when the tower falls. Two auxiliary chapels are located on either side of the Cathedral. El Triunfo, on the right side of the Cathedral (when facing the buildings), is known for being the first Christian church in Cusco. To the left of the Cathedral is the Iglesia Jesús y María. Note that this is where the main tourist entrance to the Cathedral is located.

Heading to the Southeast side of the plaza, you can’t miss La Campanía de Jesús, a stunning baroque-style church which was originally built by the Jesuits. Within the church you will find a collection of artwork by some of the famous artists of the Escuela Cuzqueña, the colonial-era Cusco School of Art whose influence spread across Peru’s borders to neighboring countries. Note the symbolic painting near the entrance depicting the wedding of Manco Inca’s granddaughter to the man who captured Tupac Amaru (the last Inca). On your way out, pop into Calle Loreto, one of the oldest and most distinguished Inca walls remaining in Cusco.

Continuing Southeast and exiting the plaza you will find the Santa Catalina convent, which today also serves as a museum of art for the public. The building is beautiful and worth popping into, although the convent is closed and the nuns do not maintain contact with the outside world.

Further along to the south is one of Cusco’s most extraordinary monuments, Santo Domingo and Qoricancha. The baroque church of Santo Domingo envelopes what was once the Inca Temple of the Sun (from the legend of Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo), or the Qoricancha, in an architecture that is symbolic of the Mestizo culture. It was here that the highest order of the Inca Empire came to worship the sun and observe the stars. When the Spaniards invaded, they demolished the temple and used the Inca walls for the foundation of the Church of Santo Domingo. Today some of the cloister has been gutted to reveal the exquisitely crafted Inca stonework beneath.

Finally, head west to La Merced, which was originally built by the religious order of Merced (initially established in Spain to ransom impoverished Christian captives). La Merced contains one of the most beautiful examples of baroque and renaissance architecture in its cloisters. The monstrance is quite unique made of gold and covered with precious stones and a pearl configuration that creates the form of a mermaid.

This intriguingly pronounced site (sounds like ‘sexy woman’) is the head of the Puma shape that forms the city of Cusco. The tiered zigzagging walls of the main fortification are said to be the teeth, but also serve a more obvious purpose, which is a defense mechanism against invaders. A close look at the ruins show a fact even more intriguing than the site’s name: the massive rocks that make up the walls, some weighing 130 tons, have been perfectly placed, in the impeccable style that is common to Inca foundations. Despite its fortress-like structure, the site is thought to have been a temple to the sun. Across the grounds on a small hill lies the ‘Inca’s Throne’.

Sacsayhuaman can be visited in combination with nearby Quenco, a skillfully carved limestone rock, and Tambomachay, the Inca Baths. All can be reached on foot in a half day and require the boleto turístico for entry. (Ticket inspectors do roam the sites to make sure you have the ticket). Sacsayhuaman is a ½ hour walk from the center of town – take Pumacurco from the Plaza de las Nazarenas.

Inside Tip: If you happen to be in Cusco on a full moon, be sure to look up – it is breathtaking.

The Sacred Valley is the enchanted area that lies between Cusco (formerly the capital of the Incan empire) and Machu Picchu (the lost city of the Incas). The sacred Wilka Mayu River flows from its source high in the Wilcanota Mountains down through this picturesque valley. Here it becomes the Urubamba (‘fields of light’) River and winds its way around Machu Picchu before completing its journey to the Amazon.

There is plenty to see and do in the area – which is accessible by day trip from Cusco – from hiking the mystical trails of the Sacred Valley to taking novoandino cooking classes.

Peru has two official languages, Spanish and Quechua (the language of the Inca Empire). Cusco is teeming with Spanish schools and provides an excellent environment to settle in for a few days or weeks to pick up a new language. For Spanish lessons we can recommend the Amauta School. Although Quechua lessons are less common, we do recommend Daniel Concha, a tour guide in Cusco who has guest rooms in his home where you can stay and study.

At the top of a rather steep climb from the Plaza de Armas is a quaint little pedestrian-only barrio where Cusco’s artists and bohemian-types reside. Here you will find fun little cafes and restaurants, as well as your typical tourist stops. The white adobe church in the plaza is worth popping into for its elaborate woodworking and gold-leaf altar. While you’re there, take in the view of the town below.

Be sure to take a stroll down Hatun Rumiyoc, the cobblestoned street filled with polygonal stone walls. Right near the Archbishop’s Palace you will find the famous 12-cornered stone, which is more popularly recognized amongst travelers as the logo for Cuzqueña beer.

One of the first stops on any cultural travel itinerary should be the local market. This single destination can tell you so much about the Andean culture. Cusco’s central market, located West of the Plaza de Armas near the San Pedro Train Station, is a vibrant spot that can keep you entertained for hours. Here you can have a first-hand look at how locals live their day-to-day, outside the confines of Cusco’s tourist zones.

By observing the scene you can:

- hear the language as it is spoken and properly pronounced
- view the gestures and habits that are common to the Andean culture
- smell the scents of local produce and flora
- absorb the styles and textures of the local fashion
- see the fruits, vegetables and meats that make up the main staples of traditional meals
- taste the local delicacies (if you’re daring enough you’ll get a great deal!)

Be careful and watch your belongings as pickpockets and petty thieves are abundant in the market. The market is open daily during daylight hours.

For centuries Peruvians have turned to natural remedies to cure their ailments. Medicinal and hallucinogenic plants have been used since pre-Inca times for healing. A variety of healers (referred to as shamans in North America) exist throughout the country with a wide range of techniques. While healers from Northern Peru use San Pedro cactus in their ceremonies, healers from the Amazon work with ayahuasca, which in Quechua translates to ‘vine of the dead’. Ayahuasca is a hallucinogen that induces visions and helps to diagnose illness. Healing ceremonies take place late at night, when the energies are at their highest, especially during a full moon. Westerners have come to Peru specifically to visit with these healers regarding a variety of issues including cancer and depression. Enigma Tours offers Ayahuasca Sessions as well as other spiritual programs including payments to pachamama, purification ceremonies and shamanic meditation.Mystical Andes Tours offers travelers the opportunity to participate in San Pedro ceremonies. Click here to read more about both.

The Inca museum is conveniently located in the Admirals Palace, one of the most beautiful colonial houses in Cusco. Within the palace walls you will find a wonderful introduction to the Inca culture, complete with artifacts, mummies and exhibits that demonstrate the progression of the Inca culture throughout time.
Museo Inca
Cuesta del Almirante, 103 (at the corner of Ataúd & Tucumán)

The Pre-columbian Art Museum is definitely worth a visit if you are interested in gaining an artistic portrayal of the Andean history and culture. As the name would suggest, the works (including pottery, woodworking and jewelry) of the Inca, Nazca, Chimú and Moche empires are on display. This museum has the advantage of being relatively new and, although it is not quite as robust as the museums you will find in Lima, the exhibits are well displayed in a beautiful setting. The MAP café, one of Cusco’s finest, is located in the museum’s courtyard in a ‘fishbowl’ glass room.
Museo de Arte Precolombino
Casa Cabrera, Plaza de las Nazarenas

Machu Picchu is the crown jewel of the Inca Empire. It is believed to have been built by Pachacuti, the legendary Inca figure who was responsible for the expansion of the Inca Empire in the 15th century. Archaeologists have determined that it was a country estate for Inca nobility because it is not designed in the form of a conventional city. Some also suppose that it was built to protect this nobility in the event of an attack. An educated look at the placement and direction of the ruins would also indicate that they were built to accommodate a variety of sacred landscape features and in consideration of the sun’s position throughout the seasons.

There are several ways to visit Machu Picchu. If you are adventurous (and fit!) you can embark on a 4-day hike along the Inca Trail. Those who want a bit of the outdoors, but can’t spare the time, can hop on the trail at km 104 and still participate in the glorious experience of walking through the gates at sunrise. If you prefer a less vigorous route you can take the train from Cusco or Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes and shuttle to the ruins. Don´t miss the walk to Huayna Pichu. The view of Machu Picchu and the rest of the valley from there is quite unique.