Christmas is a truly special time in Guatemala marked by rich traditions and foods and of course, an exceptional number of fireworks.  It all begins early in the month on December 7th with “La Quema del Diablo,” or the burning of the devil.  This custom is 500 years old and comes from the Virgin Mary’s victory over the devil.  It is said that the devil hides in all the old stuff within one’s house that they no longer use: old clothes, toys, papers, or furniture.  In Guatemala, in anticipation of this day, people clean out their houses of any garbage or unused items and pile it all on the street in front of their home.  Sometimes an entire neighborhood will make one big pile.  Then, at night fall, the pile of garbage is lit on fire and everyone celebrates the cleansing of the home of the devil’s presence around the bonfires.  Unfortunately, this tradition can cause a lot of damage to the environment and as a result has been restricted in some areas.  In Antigua for example, people are no longer allowed to burn trash in front of their homes.  In order to celebrate, a large wooden devil is constructed and burned in a controlled area while the entire town celebrates together.  

In early December families and communities also begin constructing nativity scenes called “nacimientos.”  Some families will use half of their home to make a replica of the town of Bethlehem out of moss, pine needles and colored saw dust.  They may be elaborate enough to have animals, mountains, and flowing water for rivers or lakes accompanying the figures of the baby Jesus, his family, and the wise men.  Churches will construct even larger scenes and the entire community may participate.  At midnight on Christmas Eve the youngest child of the family unveils the baby Jesus as part of the nativity scene while the rest of the family watches.

Nine days before Christmas the fireworks intensify and the processions begin.  They move through the streets, men and women carrying floats with Mary and Joseph, re-enacting their search for shelter. Ritual questions and answers are recited as the couple is denied entry at each stop.  Finally, at the last house visited Mary and Joseph are granted shelter and there is a big party to celebrate.

On Christmas Eve it is traditional to go to church.  After church, everyone returns home to await the stroke of midnight when the “abrazo de navidad,” or the Christmas hug, takes place among family, friends and neighbors.  Firecrackers are set off everywhere and the fiesta begins.  A dinner of a special Christmas “tamal” is then eaten—it’s made out of corn mass filled with red beans or turkey, prunes, apples and raisins.  It is wrapped in a banana leaf, tied together with a weed and cooked for eight hours.  It is served with white bread and thick Guatemalan hot chocolate.  

In addition to the firecrackers, church bells from the numerous churches ring incessantly and marimba music is played for dancing.  The celebration continues late into the night and starts again around midday on the 25th when people begin setting off more firecrackers and return to church. The rest of the day is quieter but the processions and colorful nativity scenes continue into January and even Lent.