Guatemala > Quetzaltenango

Top Things to Do

Xela is surrounded by both active and inactive volcanoes. All 12,256 feet of Santa Maria is the toughest climb around, but well worth the views on a clear day as you look down on the Santiaguito volcano beneath, which erupts hourly. If you're lucky you can even catch a glimpse of the volcanoes surrounding Lake Atitlan. This is a full day hike and is rather strenuous.

For something longer but a little less arduous you can hike the Tajumulco volcano. Despite being the highest summit in Central America at 4220m high, the incline is much more forgiving. It is recommended that you stay overnight on this hike so that you can admire the sunset and sunrise from this vantage point. It is highly recommended that you go with a guide on both treks.

Laguna Chicabal is a beautiful place for a stroll if you are looking for a spiritual experience. The lake, which sits within a crater of a dormant volcano, is sacred to the Mayan people who refer to the often-present fog covering as a 'mystical cloud forest'. Take any bus headed towards San Martin Chile Verde and let the driver know you want 'Laguna Chicabal'. Follow the signs and you will find a stairway that will lead you down to the lake. If you are really lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the Quetzal - Guatemala's rare national bird.

The picturesque town of San Francisco El Alto comes alive every Friday morning for market day. Men, women and children come from the surrounding towns, near and far, to trade their goods. Some spend the entire night walking there so that they can set up their stands and begin selling at the crack of dawn. An open field serves as an animal exchange where families hawk their prized pigs, cows and other farming animals. Further into the market you will find a claustrophobic maze of tables featuring everything from household goods and furniture to textiles and fresh veggies. Be sure to arrive early and always keep an eye on your wallet.

San Andrés Xecul is located just outside Xela. In the center of town you will find an outstanding old church painted in bright yellow with fascinating trim and design. Walk up the hill away from the town square and you will find a house where Maximon is worshipped. Look up and you are likely to see clumps of brightly coloured materials hanging from rooftops. These households belong to the textile cooperative where the materials are dyed and sold to textile manufacturers in other villages or on market days (Tuesdays).

The Bake Shop is a Mennonite bakery that sells delicious baked goods from healthy whole wheat breads to glazed donuts and wonderful cookies. Located in Zona 3, it is worth the walk where you can stroll near the lovely park and see the development that is revitalizing this part of town. Its best to get there early in the day - the bakery is only open on Tuesdays and Fridays (opens at 9:00am).

Todos Santos is a small Mayan community nestled in the heart of the Cuchumatán Mountains, right near the Mexican border. The drive from Xela is 3-4 hours (depending on road conditions), but the scenery along the way is beautiful and well worth the drive. The main attraction here is the people, who speak Mam (a Mayan dialect) and wear some of the most stunning traje (traditional dress) in the country. The men's outfits are typified by the brimmed hat with a blue sash, red pants and striped shirts.

There is one main street here, making a tour of the town relatively quick. Try to plan your visit on a Saturday, which is market day here, welcoming people from the surrounding towns to sell their goods. Be sure to stop in at the Casa Familiar, which is a co-op of weavers. Each item has a name on it, telling you who the woman that produced it was, and the profits go directly to her.

The town's fiesta, Dia de Todos Santos, is on November 1st and features a famous horse race, called Corrida de gallos, or Rooster Race, where the less-then-sober participants ride between designated points, taking a drink at each stop. The winner is the last man standing - so to speak.

Todos Santos can be reached by a combination of chicken buses or through a tour. A private tour is the best way to see it (but also the priciest) because you can stop at other attractive sites along the way. Leave Xela early in the morning as you will be passing through several towns, one of which is likely to be having a market day. It is fascinating to watch people heading to the market, having left their homes at 4:00am to sell their wares and animals. You can also pass through the town of Chiantla, where the men all wear cowboy boots. Here you can visit the beautiful church that houses the Virgin of Candaleria and gaze at the town hall with its Italian balustrade.

Known in Guatemala as Maximon, this deity is worshiped by Mayan people throughout the country who make offerings such as cigars and booze, and ask for his blessing. Some believe that, while he can protect them from evil spirits, he can also provide them with wives, jobs and money. San Simon (as he is known by the Spanish) is usually kept in the home of a worshipper and often moved annually to a new place. The town of Zunil, just outside of Xela, is the center of the cult that worships Maximon. If you are not interested in this obscure deity, Zunil itself is worth a visit for the colourful traditional outfits that are worn by the indigenous here. Mondays is market day in Zunil.