Brazil > Salvador

Top Things to Do

Although it is not Salvador's most beautiful church, it is quite impressive in the evenings all lit up and overlooking the bay and it regularly attracts many devoted worshippers. There is a museum attached, which is less interesting than the antechamber below it filled with photos and ribbons signifying requests for everything from daily successes to good health and curing. The church is open Tues - Sun 6:30 am -12:00pm and 2:00pm - 6:00pm. Take a taxi or the bus from the bottom of the Lacerda elevator marked 'Bonfirm'. After the church you can continue along to Ribeira for some ice cream from the famous Ribeira Ice Cream parlor.

Located in the Cidade Baixa (lower city) which was traditionally Salvador's commercial center. There is little else of interest down here and in fact, given the dangers of the surrounding areas, you are best advised to spend most of your time in the lower city at the Mercado. The building was restored completely to its original form after a fire burned it to the ground in 1984. Today, it is very much a tourist zone, filled with arts and crafts and souvenirs-to-be. There are a few food venues upstairs and typically there is entertainment of some sort in and around the market. Mon - Sat 8:00am - 7:00pm and Sun 8:00am - 12:00pm. Take the Lacerda elevator from Pelourinho and cross the street to the market.

Known not only for its beautiful 13km stretch of beach, but also for the Projeto Tamar, a well-known sea turtle reserve. Praia do Forte is one of the most important nursery beaches for the little guys. Over-fishing and the destruction of nests has posed a significant threat to their survival. The nesting season runs from November until mid-March and visitors are allowed to come and see turtles of all ages and sizes, and if they are lucky, see a turtle hatch and make its move onto the beach. Visitors are welcome daily. www.projetotamar.org.br. Regular buses leave daily from the Salvador Rodoviaria (approx 2.5hrs) or most of the travel agencies offer tours.

The lighthouse (farol) sits on the point where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Bahia de Todos os Santos and from here you have an unobstructed view of the sun setting behind Itaparica.

A designated UNESCO world heritage site, this historic center of Salvador is one of the most colourful and interesting centers in Brazil. The cobblestone streets are steep and narrow, lined with ateliers and restaurants serving up Bahian specialties. Home to 34 beautiful colonial churches, the town has also sprouted some interesting museums that can provide a background to the landscape. The Museu Afro-Brasileiro (located in the Tereiro de Jesus; closed weekends) is one of the more interesting if it appeals. The museum displays the history of the local culture that developed after the African slaves were brought to Brazil including capoeira and candomblé.

Walking down towards Largo de Pelourinho and up the other side will take you into Santo Antõnio where there are beautifully restored colonial buildings, some only facades, and several of the best posadas in the area. If you are lucky you might catch some people doing capoeira on the streets, which can be quite a sight as compared to the more touristy versions that are put on in staged performances. You will recognize it as the martial art that combines acrobatics in a playful display of Afro-Brazilian entertainment. Be careful to do this walk during the daylight hours and not on a Sunday when the streets tend to be deserted and more dangerous. If you are very interested in the history of the surrounding buildings and churches, you can hire a guide to tour Pelourinho (available at Singtur, Praça José Anchieta 12).

Bahian sound reflects the deeply ingrained African influences that are expressed in various art forms throughout Northeastern Brazil. You’ve probably heard of Olodum - the famous sound from Salvador that accompanied Paul Simon in his Rhythm of The Saints album. Today Olodum is a local tourist attraction and when they are in town, you can catch them rehearsing on Tuesdays at the Praça Teresa Batista or Sundays at the Largo do Pelô. Stop by the Casa de Olodum (Rua Gregorio de Matos 22) in the center of Pelourinho for more information.

It’s easy to stumble across live music in Salvador pretty much any night of the week. Tuesdays in Pelourinho are referred to as Terça da Bençao (Blessed Tuesday) which kicks off after mass, around 6:00pm. Other groups worth catching when they rehearse in public are Ilê Aiyê, Arekatu, and Dida. Performance listing can be found in the BahiaCultural publication found at most posadas and information booths around the city. Throughout the summer, Teatro Castro Alves showcases the biggest performers. Concerts can also be found at Bar do Reggae - follow the Rasta flags in Largo do Pelourinho or at the Aeroclube Plaza which is a hike out of town in Praia de Flamengo (be sure to take a taxi).

Although Samba is the most internationally known, there are several other dance moves that you should be aware of. Arrocha is the lambada-like move that is danced to the sound of Meia Brega, which is a bit like the rhythm you had on your Fisher Price Keyboard as a kid. To give you an idea of what it looks like, realize that the word Arrocha stems from the verb Arrochar which translates to ‘hold on tightly’.

Forró is another one you should know about. A funky, country-and-western-type rhythm that involves an accordeon. To see for yourself, head to Praça Pedro Arcanjo on Thursday nights or Emporio on weekends.

For good old traditional Samba, you can check out any number of Samba schools to watch them rehearse, or get involved yourself. The Samba de Roda is quite a spectacle with a circle of people clapping, laughing and dancing. If you’re on the perimeter and you get picked, be prepared to show your stuff! Try Beco de Gal on Wednesdays and Viola Vadia on Fridays.

For the latest in Bahian sound and great ideas for where to see live music, stop in to see Randy at the Bahia Online Music store (Rua Joâo de Deus, 22, Pelourinho; (71) 3321-0536). Randy features the best of local artists who have not yet been discovered by the big record labels. To hear some of these undiscovered sounds, check out the Bahia-Online site, or better yet, drop by the store. For more information on Olodum click here.