Palermo is one of Buenos Aires' most lively barrios, or neighborhoods. What was once a playground for the elite is today the home of locals from all economic standings. Built in the early 20th century, this neighborhood is lined with beautiful old houses that today serve as homes, restaurants and eclectic boutiques. The neighborhood has been divided into sub-divisions aptly named Palermo Viejo, Palermo Chico, Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood. The area that is bordered by Santa Fe, Godoy Cruz, Córdoba and Scalabrini Ortiz is one of the nicest to explore, particularly the lovely alleys, known as 'pasajes'.
Formerly a strictly bohemian location, this area has blossomed into a thriving, hip neighborhood thanks to the designers who have set up shop here. Wandering the streets today you would almost think you were in Soho, New York. Not only have clothing and furniture designers settled here, you will also find some culinary rarities. If you look carefully, every restaurant around the Plaza has a special dish to offer, just like every clothing store is different and every piece of furniture is unique.
At the center of it all is the Plaza Cortázar, commonly known as Plaza Serrano, due to its location at the intersection of Serrano Street and Honduras Street. The small, round Plaza hosts a wonderful, yet very busy fair on weekends, where some local artisans and hippies hang out and sell their goods. You can find anything from homemade mustard to souvenirs and ornaments. Surrounding the Plaza are some typical cafés, many of which turn into restaurants at the appropriate time.
This neighborhood is an excellent place to spend the day beginning with a walk in the Palermo Park which includes the Jardin Botanico and the Jardin Zoologico. If you want to avoid the crowds, it is best to head there during mid-week when the streets are a little emptier. At night, the shops close their doors and the restaurants and bars come alive.
Wander through Caminito, a colourful tourist walkway that is filled with art stalls. This 'street museum' stretches for 300 meters along the edge of the River Riachuelo in the working-class neighborhood of La Boca. It is here that the Genoese settled in the early 1900s building the brightly-coloured houses that today provide much of the character of this neighborhood. Keep in mind that this is a dramatically different picture from the real La Boca neighborhood and you should be careful not to stray too far from this area.
Plaza Dorrego is the place to come on a Sunday if you are looking for that missing place-setting that you have been searching for... don't expect to bring home the perfect gift to your best friend, unless she is an antique hound. Nonetheless, on Sundays this otherwise peaceful plaza turns into a market place filled with locals and tourists alike.
There are over 280 stands set up in the plaza. The artisans behind these stands reflect Argentina’s social and economical reality, as they grow in number every day and are now fighting for the right to sell legally on the streets. It is well worth a visit for the atmosphere itself.
Calle Defensa is closed to cars and filled with artisans and street performances, providing a truly unique experience. This cobble-stoned street is lined with beautiful antique furniture stores as well as traditional cafes with reasonable prices and local people who live and work according to their past and traditions. You can also grab lunch or a drink pretty much anywhere around the plaza, but most places are geared for tourists and charge accordingly. If you choose to do this, try one of the restaurants with balconies overlooking the plaza. For simple fare, Café Del Arbol (Humberto Primero 424) serves up salads and sandwiches at reasonable prices.
While you're here, don't miss the Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires (Av San Juan 350; 4361-1121; Tues - Sat & Holidays 10:00am - 8:00pm, Sun 11:00am - 8:00pm; Free on Wednesdays) which is dedicated to promoting local artists' work through its small and eclectic collection of modern art.
Av Figueroa Alcort 3415 (4808 6500) www.malba.org.ar. Thurs - Mon 12:00pm - 8:00pm A$5. Wed 12:00pm - 9:00pm free. If you visit only one museum it should be this one. A funky new museum which has an excellent collection of Latin-American art including works from Frida Kahlo, Roberto Matta, Antonio Berni and José Bedia Valdés. This new modern building is situated in an elite zone of Buenos Aires. The owner is Eduardo Constantini, a businessman and one of Argentina's top Latin-American Art collectors. You will not find a collection of similar quality Latin-American artwork anywhere else in the continent. The museum has a very nice bar with a wonderful patio you can enjoy during the summer months. There is also a great gift shop where you can buy local artists' work.
Note: the theatre is currently closed for renovations. It is scheduled to re-open in May, 2008, just in time for its centenial celebration which will be marked by a performance of Giuseppe Verdi's 'Aida'.
This stunning building dates back to the year 1908 when, after 20 years of construction and a succession of architects, it opened as an opera house displaying a mixture of French and Greek influenced neo-Renaissance architecture. Today, aside from its stunning beauty and luxurious decor, this opera house is known for having some of the best acoustics in the world. Regardless of the event that is currently being performed while you are visiting, it is an experience just to see a performance here.
Tours of the building are 1.5 hours and are also recommended. Libertad 621; 4378 7100; www.Teatrocolon.org.ar; Daily guided visits in Spanish and English (Mon - Sat 10:00am - 4:00pm; Sun 10:00am - 3:00pm. Note that general staff at the theatre finish work at 2:00 – 3:00pm, so try to take an earlier tour which will enable you to see what goes on behind the scenes. Email Visitas@teatrocolon.org.ar to reserve. A$12.
The Bombonera (chocolate box) is home to the Boca Juniors, one of the most popular teams in Argentina, and the house of the infamous Diego Maradona. The stadium seats over 57,000 spectators. A 'Super Clasico', where the Boca Juniors play their rival team River Plate, should not be missed.
The sport is the passion of Argentines from all over the country, particularly Porteños, who are taught from an early age which team they are meant to support, and as such provide their unwavering dedication to that team and its players. To give you an idea of their dedication to the sport - in 1990 when the Argentineans were cheated out of the title, all school classes were cancelled.
Ticket office hours vary depending on the match. All are located on Aristóbulo del Valle Street. On days when there are no games, it is possible to take a tour of the stadium. Tours are included when you buy an entry to the Museo de la Pasion Boquense (www.museoboquense.com) Admission is A$5 -8. 10:00am - 7:00pm daily on non-game days. +54 11 4362 1100.
Named for the monks that used to inhabit this area (Recoletos - those who meditate), the area today is one of the most exclusive in the city. Avenida Alvear with its glamour and wealth sets the tone and reminds us that this was the settling place of Buenos Aires' elite after the yellow-fever epidemic forced them out of San Telmo in the late 1800s. This is an excellent place to start a tour with a little window-shopping on your way towards the Centro Cultural passing by the Alvear Palace, one of Buenos Aires’ best hotels.
Head up to Buenos Aires Design (Avenida Pueyrredon 2501; Mon - Sat 10:00am - 9:00pm; Sun 12:00pm - 9:00pm), a mall filled with interior design shops and funky, eclectic pillows and furniture (check out Dogma for great knicknacks and art pieces). The second floor is a good place for free, clean bathrooms if you need them. There is also a lovely outdoor patio where you can stop for a drink.
Continuing on southwestward you will cross the lawns where the weekend artisan fair is held. You will come to the Iglesia del Pilar, a beautiful colonial baroque church built in the early 1700s. Today it is possible to see concerts here as well. Immediately adjacent to the church lies the Recoleta Cemetery (Daily 7:00am - 6:00pm), today known by tourists as the place where Evita lies. Although this may not sound like a fun way to spend a day, it is well worth a visit. This impressive cemetery is filled with marble, bronze and granite providing hints of the important figures it surrounds ranging from Carlos de Alvear to feminist writer Victoria Ocampo. Space is exclusive and limited though today ambitious people have figured out that they can ‘rent’ a space in the cemetery to be buried there, only to be removed to another cemetery of lesser status a day later. On Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11:00am there are free tours provided (for more info call 4804 7040).
After the tour you can carry on to Village Recoleta, southwest of the cemetery. Here there are some restaurants and bars where you can grab lunch. For something above the crowds, head to the terrace-bar on the 14th floor of the Etoile Hotel across from the cemetery. If you would prefer a more historic dining scenario, try the infamous Cafe La Biela on nearby Avenida Quintana.
After lunch, walk towards Avenida Las Heras to pass by the fabulous Faculty of Engineering building at the corner of Azcuenaga besides Plaza Mitre. Continue up Avenida Pueyrredon cutting up to De Vittoria and Guido through what the locals call 'La Isla' - a quiet oasis - along the British Embassy and down alongside the National Library to the Plaza Evita displaying a statue of Eva herself. Continue on through the parks along del Libertador to Plaza Francia with its centenary trees and many monuments. A wonderful place to join the locals nestled in with their books or sympathize with the dog walkers who are tangled amongst their dozens of leashes. Head across Avenida del Libertador to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, which was once a large tank of water that was remodeled into this museum. Behind it lies the law school building, which is often the backdrop of fashion shoots with its lovely neo-classic design. Here you will see the funky steel and aluminum Floralis Generica, a huge sunflower that opens and closes with the sunrise and sunset each day. Grab a seat and relax for the rest of the afternoon and catch the gorgeous sunset.
The tango originated in the late 18th century boliches (brothels) where the lower-class Porteños went to drown their sorrows. Its influences came from the many immigrants who were arriving from Europe and Africa and came to symbolize them through this music and dance combination. With universal suffrage in 1912, the lower class and their culture became a part of mainstream Buenos Aires. Before too long, the Tango became known internationally and was soon all the rage in cosmopolitan cities such as Paris. The recognition of this art form by such a prestigious crowd led to the acceptance and pursuance of tango by the Argentine elite. Today, although its popularity is waning with the younger generation, it is still possible to find many authentic as well as tourist catering establishments where the tango can be observed and given a whirl.
This is a picturesque, historical walking tour beginning in the Plaza de Mayo, and continuing along Avenida de Mayo observing the variety and style of the domes and facades lining the avenue, and finishing in the majestic building of the National Congress. The plaza has many attractions including La Casa Rosada (Balcarce 50) which is the headquarters of the Republic Presidency, whose balcony has hosted the most important speeches in Argentine history (as well as Madonna when she filmed Alan Parker's Evita. The interior of the building has several points of interest but only the museum is open for public visits.
Crossing the plaza, you will encounter the Metropolitan Cathedral on your right, located at Av. Rivadavia and St Martin. Notice the architecture of the church which has 12 columns representing the apostles.
On the right side of the Cathedral you will see the Mausoleum containing the remains of the liberating Argentine hero, General St Martin. El Cabildo is another important attraction in the plaza (Hipólito Yrigoyen y Av of Mayo). In spite of successive reforms, this building still breathes history as it was the epicenter of the May Revolution in 1810, the date of the Argentine independence. It has a museum that is open to the public.
The Manzana de las Luces, located nearby at Bolivar, A. Alsina, Peru and Moreno, is a set of buildings related to the Porteños history and culture, where the most ancient church of the city and tunnels of the colonial epoch hide.
Be prepared when heading to the area as you are likely to come across some sort of organized march -- ranging from the Madres De Plaza De Mayo still marching for justice on their missing children during the dirty war, to Piqueteros (unemployed masses) and even union workers protesting the current social situation.
In 1880 Florida Street became an exclusive address housing many of Buenos Aires' elite. Florida Street's central location naturally made it a main commercial artery in the city. In 1910 as commercial activity gradually began to improve, the elite moved their mansions to what is now Plaza St Martin and beyond to some of the city's more sophisticated neighborhoods. In 1913 the city acceded to the merchants requests and the street was turned into a pedestrian avenue. Today, Florida Street is a busy tourist destination surrounded by shops and street performers, and is an entertaining option for an afternoon stroll.
Located beside the river, Parque de la Costa attracts many national and foreign tourists. The park has been built around the Delta terminal station of the Tren de la Costa which is famous for its tours through the northern zone of Buenos Aires and its beautiful residential areas, ending in Tigre - a nearby town known for its colonial buildings and beautiful sunsets. The park offers tours through the islands of the Delta river, educational shows for kids, two roller coasters and others interesting attractions that will keep the whole family busy. The park also offers a variety of restaurants and several souvenir stores. When you're done with the park, head over to the Puerto de Frutos market (open daily). For information on visiting Tigre (32km north of Buenos Aires) and activities around the Delta visit the Tigre municipal website which provides excellent information in English.
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