Although it may be hard to believe, Flores island was once the political capital of the Maya Itza Confederation. By the time the Spanish invaded, the Maya Indians occupied almost all of Guatemala, Belize, and the Yucatan Peninsula as well as some parts of Honduras and El Salvador. After the Spanish conquest it became known as 'Devil's Island' and in 1800 the government established a prison where the central plaza now stands. Today Flores has a population of 2000, mainly serving the tourists who infiltrate and use the island as a departure point for Tikal. Tikal, which means 'place of echoes', is the largest religious metropolis of the Mayan world.

The small village of El Remate is the second largest destination for travelers exploring the Tikal area after Flores. Located 30km east of Flores on the shores of Lago Peten Itza, it is nothing more than a sleepy little town. While it doesn’t have nearly as many restaurant and bar options as Flores, it is refreshingly un-touristy, tranquil and has great scenery. Hogs, chickens and dogs patrol the main street that heads west to Tikal while horses graze close to the lake shore.

It is worth poking your head in the tiny wood carving shops to see the local artists in action. If you want to explore the area, head away from the main highway past La Casa de Don David. The street hugs the lake, passing a few good restaurants and eventually turns to a small dirt road. It is quite nice and safe to walk or bike in the evenings.

Tikal is hot and humid throughout the year, with April and May being the hottest months. The rainy season runs from May to September. The nicest time to visit is between December and February.