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Cultural Cheatsheet
How To Blend In Like A Local In Brazil
Expressions
Greetings
Cariocas are generally very kind and warm people. They'll normally greet you first or they'll pleasantly respond to your greeting. Men greet men with a firm handshake, introducing themselves saying, "prazer" (pleasure, pronunced prah-zeyr), followed by their name. You can reply “prazer” and your name.
Women kiss and will be kissed on both cheeks. In some cities other than Rio, it is common to exchange a third kiss (on the cheek, of course), for good luck or marriage (?!). In Sao Paulo one kiss will do. The initiation of a group gathering can be quite a lengthy process as each person is expected to kiss every other person at least twice. Once it's over, don't try to leave in a rush, as the ritual is repeated to conclude a gathering as well. You'll also notice that Cariocas like to touch, hug and pat each other on the shoulder quite often-including the men. This is the world famous Carioca human warmth in action. (See more below)
Other common greetings are "e aí, como vai?" for “how’s it going? (pronounced ee aiy ee, como vaiy), or "fala!", literally "Speak!" used in place of “what’s up”. You’ll surely hear the ever-popular, all purpose "tudo bem?" and “tudo bom?”, literally "everything okay?". If you’re greeted with “tudo bem?” just respond with a cool “tudo bom” or vice versa.
‘Valeu’
Literally translates to "it was worth it". It is generally used when thanking someone, and is generally used by the younger generation. A common example of when to use this word is when a vendor on the beach is trying to sell you something, and you're not interested. A polite, "não obrigado" (if you're a male) or "não obrigada" (if you're a female), and "valeu", lets the seller know that you're not interested.
'Gringo'
This is how Cariocas will refer to you, a foreigner, whether they like you or not, either to your face or behind your back. It's not meant in a derogatory way but rather as a form of identification (especially if they don't know your name or can't pronounce it).
Portuguese
Rio is a slang-factory. You won't notice the seasons changing, but slang expressions come and go quite often. When at work, the Carioca forces himself to use the language correctly, but when off duty, Cariocas like to let their tongue loose, as they say. When drinking, it is common to hear a lot of swearing.
Culture
Women
Like many other Latin-American countries, Brazil has a rather 'macho' culture, but don't let that deceive you! Brazilian women are known to be very strong and demanding and not easily pushed around! Beauty is a common attribute to a Carioca woman and Carioca males often show their appreciation with a long look or a kind comment. Both sexes can be a bit possessive and may not want you looking at "their property", so always be careful and try to notice if their patroa or patrão (boss, as they call their companions) is around.
About Men
As with many Latin-American cultures, the men can be surprisingly forward, depending on where you have come from. While generalizations are dangerous, it’s pretty safe to say that if you’re blonde, you’re exotic here and will likely get an extra dose of attention from the men folk. It may be shocking at first to have someone blatantly stare at you or make comments as they pass by. This is not meant to be offensive, but is actually just an expression of appreciation. There is no need to be rude, but also no need to pursue them. It is fine to simply continue on with what you were doing. If you find that the line has been crossed, and you are truly uncomfortable, pop in to a nearby store or café and take refuge for a few minutes.
The kiss in Brazil has about the same weight as a handshake in the U.S. so don’t be surprised if a guy asks to kiss you or if lips—or even tongues—collide suddenly as you’re dancing or walking side by side with someone you’ve very recently met. As with a handshake, you can move on with no fuss.
Promptness
If you are the type of person who needs to keep to a schedule, Rio is not the place for you. Virtually no event starts on time. No service personnel will ever see the fault in making you wait while they finish up gossiping on the phone. Even your friends aren't immune. If you invite people for dinner, don't expect to see anyone for at least two hours after the specified time (fashionably late). That's just the way it goes.
Tipping
Tips at restaurants and bars are typically included in the tab and amount to 10%. Sometimes the tab will indicate 'serviço não incluso' which means that tips have not been included and you should leave a 10% tip for your server. Taxis fares are typically rounded up to the nearest Real, but no formal tip is required.
Soccer fans
A Carioca isn't a true Carioca if he or she doesn't cheer fanatically for a team. There are four main soccer teams in Rio. The most popular team in Rio is Flamengo, wearing red and black colors. Flamengo is adored by all classes, and hated by the other three teams. A "clássico" (extremely important game) is played between Flamengo and Fluminense, also called "FlaFlu". You'll see people drinking and cheering at bars, restaurants and streets when a FlaFlu is on and you may take your life in your hands if you go Maracanã to see the game live since saying that the crowds get riled up would be an understatement. Fluminense is one of the oldest teams in Brazil, and is said to be cheered for by upper-class people, as Flamengo is predominantly of the lower classes. Vascaínos, as the Vasco crowd is called, is another legion of great, older soccer admirers and Flamengo haters. Botafogo is the fourth largest team in Rio, mostly made famous by its soccer genius Garrincha (better than Maradona, many Brazilians will say).
Food & Drink
Brazil is a continental country with an enormous variety of dishes, all sharing one thing in common: the amount. A Brazilian plate is a always a big plate: if the menu says “for two” you can probably feed three or four. Some of the common ingredients in all regions are rice, beans and meat.
Farofa – toasted, sautéed, seasoned manioc flour-- gives the plate a thick texture, similar to poured concrete, perfect for those who plan to stuff their stomachs. Try the farofa com banana (yes, with banana) and/or with ovo (egg).
Up north, where refrigerators were traditionally less common, meat was salted and dried in the equatorial sun, making the transformation into the famous carne seca -- salty, a little tough on the texture, but delicious with some farofa, fried manioc and, of course, something to drink (preferably a caipirinha). Food tends to be a bit more flavorful in Bahia and other Northeastern states.
Down south is where the European immigrants arrived with their carnivorous appetites. They must have gone nuts when they discovered the cows breeding like bunnies in the vast “pampas”. The famous churrascos that you see in Rio and São Paulo (and now internationally), originated in the South, where it is said the best “churrasqueiros” (barbecuers) in the world reside.
It would be cruel not to mention the food from Minas Gerais, which has maintained its integrity throughout the years. Beans cooked in clay pots over a wood-fed stove, served with soft rice and meat (mostly pork and beef), is the typical “Mineiro” meal.
Bahia's most famous snack is the acarajé. This fried biscuit made of beans is often stuffed with shrimps, tomato and okra paste. The moqueca is another dish not to be missed. This rich stew is made with fresh fish or seafood, coconut milk, spicy peppers and dendê palm oil, which can wreak havoc on a tourist’s stomach.
On nearly every street block in Ipanema you will find sucos, which are the original Jamba Juices. These are fresh fruit shakes featuring all of Brazil’s exotic fruits (passion fruit, mango, guava… hungry yet?). Be sure to try out açai, a sorbet-like treat made from the frozen pulp of little purple berry grown in the Amazon combined with Brazilian’s unique guaraná extract, and packed with energy (a great treat when served with granola). Be warned – this invigorating snack has approximately the same amount of calories as an entire meal!
Another great mid-morning or afternoon snack is the pão de queijo – cheese bread originated from Minas Gerais’ grandmothers – which is a sumptuous donut-hole-looking snack that melts in your mouth.
Feijoada
A long time ago, in the era of slavery, the rich would eat the best of what was harvested. The slaves were given what was left over, including pig’s tails, feet, nose and ears, cow tails and tongues, etc. Famous for making the best out of the worst situations, these slaves learned to cook the leftover meat with beans, creating feijoada.
Beer
Beer in Rio is also called "gelada" (cold one), "gelo" (ice), "cerva" (short for cerveja) or "loirinha" (blondie). Whatever the name, whether from a styrofoam cooler or a swanky bar, it should be frosty and ridiculously cold when it hits your mouth. What's the best beer? It's really a personal choice. Musician Zeca Pagodinho appeared in a major ad campaign for Antarctica and was then sued when he went back to drinking his personal favorite, Brahma. Some people buy Nova Schin just because a portion of the profits finances the Flamengo soccer team while the owner of a large supermarket chain has banned its sale in his stores since he is a Vasco fan. There is little doubt that Skol is the most popular beer and most will agree that Schin is pretty low on the list.
Local drinks
Start by ordering the world famous caipirinha, which loosely translated means the little country bumpkin. The drink is made with a good dose of cachaça (a Brazilian liquor), freshly squeezed limes and sugar. You can also order the caipirinha's Euro cousin, the "caipiroska" – in which vodka is substituted for cachaça. As the drink became more popular, bartenders started to change some of its ingredients for experimentation, often substituting passion fruit, pineapple, strawberries, kiwi, or other typically Brazilian fruits like jabuticaba and acerola in place of the lime. These equally delicious "caipifruitas” can be ordered at many bars and are refreshing on those especially hot days.
Coffee
If you prefer your coffee 'au natural' be sure to ask for it 'sem (pronounced "seng") açucar', otherwise it will come loaded with sugar. Most restaurants serve traditional Brazilian coffee (very small cups of strong coffee) for free after a meal. However espresso and other coffees will be added to your bill. It is not customary in Brazil to drink coffee with the dessert, so if that is when you want it, make sure the waiter understands.
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